Things ain’t what they used to be. That was the sartorial judgment of no less than Calvin Klein (with Nicholas Gruber, left), who hit the Hamptons this weekend for the 17th annual Watermill Summer Benefit. Klein built his business on the lesser-dressed gentleman and -woman (remember the Weber campaigns of the early nineties?), but for formal affairs, the rules still hold. “It’s less dressy,” he said of this year’s party; he himself was in a jacket (which he carried), a white shirt and jeans. “I mean, there was a time when people really dressed up for this event. Now, maybe it’s the weather, maybe it’s the humidity, but it’s much more casual. You would never have seen men walking around in shorts here. I think it’s inappropriate, actually. We’re all sweating. That’s what happens; you have to sweat sometimes.”

Alec Baldwin, for one, was on board. He looked appropriately overheated in a seersucker jacket. And then, at the other extreme, was Rufus Wainwright. He did a jazzy rendition of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” to drive up bids on a pair of concert tickets—in flip-flops.