Since becoming a designer, Danish-born, London-based Peter Jensen has never lived in his native country. “In England, I’m perceived as a Danish designer, and here I’m always perceived as an international designer,” he said earlier today, over lunch at a café in Copenhagen. “I think I sort of land in between.” That, of course, makes him of particular interest to the locals, including Crown Princess Mary, who was a very special guest yesterday at his Copenhagen fashion week show.

Jensen’s royal visitor got a look at his menswear and Resort collections; his women’s collection will be unveiled on September 12 at New York’s Milk Studios. A bit of a pop culture archaeologist, Jensen has for past collections found unlikely muses in Sissy Spacek and Tonya Harding. He made us promise not to reveal the inspiration behind his upcoming collection, but let’s just say she has a few things in common with Spacek—among them a birth year, a weird beauty, and a memorable turn in an iconic horror movie.

For his Copenhagen show, though, Jensen pulled a couple books off the shelves and took a trip down memory lane. The menswear was inspired by a tome about Scandinavian rock climbers in the seventies, the Resort collection by a favorite childhood book about a girl throwing a birthday party. Which translates as, among other things, short and tight shorts on men, gift ribbon and party streamer prints on women, and throwback shades of blue, brown, and yellow on both. He had boy meet girl by adding those striped socks that observers of a certain age might remember from soccer practice and summer camp. “I thought [the socks] sort of brought it to a quirkier level with the womenswear,” Jensen explained. “It is very childish, but I think that’s sort of what we do.”

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